Tucked just under the equator in East-Central Africa, little Rwanda is known as the ‘land of a thousand hills’ and is officially breathtaking. Also, unofficially, the place where we discovered that “moderate trekking” is apparently code for “sweating profusely while trying to keep up with an alarmingly fit guide.”
It’s a place of vast lakes, dense tropical jungles, misty rainforests, golden savannah and winding rivers. It might be tiny, but so are the spiciest chillies.
Seeing the endangered mountain gorillas of Volcanoes National Park is the country’s ‘ape’ card (if you will). And it’s true, we think, that Rwanda is the best place to see these hulking, root-munching primates. That’s due to it having less challenging trekking conditions than other countries, a wider range of lodges, and being a relatively short drive from the airport.
We’ll admit the primates are hard to beat, but there’s so much more to Rwanda. See for yourself – travelling is easy, with decent roads and short driving distances. Hike up to volcano crater lakes. Discover an extensively rewilded safari destination. Find the coolest city hangouts. And wander through monkey-festooned forests bursting with birdlife.
As a cheeky bonus, Rwanda partners perfectly with neighbouring Tanzania. Start the day with a sunrise safari on the Serengeti plains and be ensconced in your cosy, gorilla-trekking treehouse by late afternoon.
Primate power
If – like us – you have a strong affinity with our primate cousins, Rwanda is probably already on your must-visit list.
Volcanoes National Park protects the country’s mountain gorilla population. They might be gentle, plant-based giants for the most part, but manners do matter. When you meet the eye of the troop’s burly silverback, do remember to respectfully lower your gaze. Trust us on this.
Meanwhile, Nyungwe Forest – one of the oldest rainforests in Africa and the largest in Rwanda – is home to a whopping 13 primate species. You might catch a glimpse of chimps flying through the trees or find a gang of black-and-white colobus monkeys staring down at you from their perch. Simply respond with a polite nod.
Safari scenes
Wrap up a day on safari with a lemony G&T as the sky turns peachy pink above the Akagera wetlands. This place tells an impressive conservation success story – and shows how the income and opportunities afforded by tourism can be transformative. Hard hit by the conflicts of the early 1990s, today, the national park’s savannahs are once again home to prowling lions, cranky black rhinos, and herds of elephants. The birdlife drawn to the water and marshes – the largest protected wetland in Central Africa – is off the charts, with more than 500 species counted so far. Twitchers, brace yourselves.
City vibes
Built across rolling, leafy, tree-studded hills, Kigali is a capital of modern art, cool bars, and hotels that range from classic five-stars to cute boutiques. There are museums and monuments remembering the country’s troubled past – but it’s also, a city that allows visitors to understand Rwanda today. Meet up with Kigali’s creatives at their galleries or studios. In no uncertain terms, they’ll tell you why their country is about much more than ‘gorillas and genocide.’
When to go
You can travel at most times of the year. For gorilla trekking, we’d probably avoid the two rainy seasons – mid-February to early June and October through mid-December.
Bear in mind that Volcanoes National Park can feel a bit cool, with an average year- round temperature of 15°C – pack a snug jacket for early mornings and evenings.
