Gomoti Plains, Okavango Delta The elephant in the room

At Gomoti Plains, Okavango Delta what we least expected was the action to come to us? I mean, when on safari, you hope to have at least one thrilling experience. But what you least expect is for all the excitement to happen in the bedroom…

Gomoti Plains is not easily accessed by car. Don’t expect a tarred road network or signposts dotted along your route. While you can reach the lodge by 4×4 following GPS coordinates, most visitors opt to fly in from Maun to the Southern Okavango Delta – just a short 10-minute scenic flight in a light aircraft.

Nestled beneath the trees on the water’s edge, Gomoti Plains is a sanctuary you wouldn’t even know is there until arriving at its entrance. Subtly blending into its natural surrounds, this Delta oasis reveals itself slowly, in small doses. You will never see more than two of its luxury tents at the same time, ensuring complete privacy and oneness with your environment.

To call our sleeping quarters a room does the experience no justice. The large private tents are more than comfortably furnished with king-sized beds, outside showers and private decks. You won’t find a telephone, air conditioner, hairdryer or TV. Of course, there are properties in the Okavango Delta that offer these creature ‘comforts’ but be warned they may distract from an authentic bush experience. Gomoti Plains is entirely off the grid and as close to nature as you can get – if you ignore the emergency WIFI under the Marula tree.

I was sitting on my great big deck reading a bird book and enjoying the sights and sounds. In the distance, I saw a lone elephant slowly come into view. I dropped my book, spilt my coffee and made a mad tiptoe dash for my camera.

We were soon completely surrounded. Some feeding on the left of the tent, some feeding on the right and the rest splashing around at the water’s edge directly in front of us. There was nothing but a deck separating us from these massive creatures.

Little did I know an entire herd was heading our way. Although generally considered gentle giants, we were very much aware that elephants are wild animals and can be unpredictable, especially with calves in their care. 

To sit quietly in the centre of a herd of elephants was the most unbelievable experience – we could hear them chew! They walked by slowly, giving us lots of time to take everything in. We were mesmerised for a full 40 minutes and afterwards felt completely alive and invigorated.

This was just the beginning of our magical 3-night stay. On the same trip, I took my first giraffe selfie, made firm friends with the camp kudu and saw a leopard nab his dinner in the form of an unsuspecting impala who had thought it would be safer to hang around in the camp.

You’ll be pleased to hear that despite all this action within the camp, we still boarded our game vehicle each morning and evening to venture deeper into the Delta, where we saw the Big Five, the Ugly Five and the abundant birdlife for which this Botswana paradise is renowned.

Now, you’re probably asking why on earth one would seek out the Ugly Five, or even what this rather infamous moniker refers to. We saw them all: the White-backed vulture, Marabou stork, wildebeest, hyena and warthogs. Animals so ugly that only their mother could love them (and, truth be told me too).

Back at the lodge, nothing was too much trouble. A particular highlight was a private birthday dinner consisting of Botswana beef, Hasselback potatoes, and a personalised birthday cake set up next to the pool lit with lanterns and candles. The surprises didn’t stop there. On our last day, the afternoon game drive ended in the middle of nowhere for a surprise bush dinner. We sat around a fire listening to the staff harmonising and the jackals calling while enjoying a delicious Farewell braai. The venison dish was kudu, grilled in a red wine sauce, I wasn’t sure how I would look the camp kudu in the eye, having just sampled one of its compatriots.

Everything about this experience feels exclusive and unique. Gomoti Plains’ lodge staff are all locals from Botswana. Their charm and genuine hospitality made our stay even more perfect than the exquisite surrounds.

Botswana has retained its status as a niche-tourism destination – a bushveld haven not frequented by the masses. The country’s population is also minuscule, with only two million residents living in a landmass the size of France.

With its high-yield, low-impact conservation strategy, a privileged few pay a premium to immerse themselves in a pristine ecosystem which has staved off the potential ravages of mass tourism. With tourism overcrowding becoming a real global issue, Botswana has positioned itself ahead of the pack by being selective about its tourism.

Imagine sharing a concession of 600,000 hectares with only 24 other guests and the same amount of staff. Imagine escaping the trappings of your day-to-day, your email, uninterrupted phone calls.

Not even the ugly five could stop us from returning to Gomoti Plains – where your luxury tent includes a private elephant show and the animals in the camp outnumber the humans.