The only lodge in an 18,000-hectare conservancy, the über-stylish Suyian Lodge is built on an escarpment overlooking Laikipia’s green rolling hills and plains. This central region of Kenya is much quieter than the popular Maasai Mara, though the conservancy’s recorded over 100 mammals, such as wild dogs (Suyian’s namesakes), lions and leopards (including extra-elusive black leopards), plus local specialities such as reticulated giraffes. But that’s not all. Come for the wildlife, stay for the bush walks, helicopter flights, fishing trips, ranching lessons, and, yes, even the camel milking.
Nesting arrangements
Suyian Lodge has 14 stone suites – including a two-bedroom family unit – with grass-topped roofs and brown domes to mimic the surrounding rock formations. (If you’re thinking the lodge looks suspiciously similar to its Laikipia neighbour, Arijiju, you’ll be unsurprised to learn it’s the work of the same architects.)
Interiors are straight out of a glossy design mag – think high domed ceilings; smooth stone walls and floors; charcoal linen drapes around the beds; cow-skin rugs, frilly raffia lampshades and tall wooden doors.
Each suite has a deck that looks over Laikipia’s sprawling plains towards Mount Kenya in the distance, featuring an outdoor shower, infinity plunge pool, loungers and a day bed that’s begging for an afternoon kip.
Food philosophy
Grab a light bite before the morning game drive, during which you’ll stop for yet more snacks (this is a theme) and a mocha-choca-rula – hot chocolate and coffee spiked with Amarula liqueur. Back at the lodge, it’s time for a proper breakfast – a buffet of continental-style bits such as fruit, meats and cheeses, with cooked options (eggs and the like) available to order.
Meals are served in the open-air dining area, at the “chef’s table” in the kitchen, or on your own deck. Sip your sundowner G&Ts around the fire pit or at the circular Samburu Bar if you fancy a natter with other guests or the bartender.
Lunch is a tapas-style menu designed for sharing, while dinner is a three-course affair of homey dishes with seasonal local produce. Menus and dining locations change daily, keeping the experience as fresh as the ingredients from the lodge’s herb garden.
Secret sauce
It’s the sheer array of activities available from Suyian Lodge that makes this spot stand out. Aside from twice-daily game drives around the conservancy, there are bush walks, where you can track a leopard or spot birds more easily than from a noisy vehicle, and horse rides for those who know what they’re doing (this is lion country, after all).
Should you fancy a change of pace, you could take a full-day fishing excursion to Lake Turkana or catch-and-release along the banks of the Ewaso Narok River. Visit the Suyian Conservancy Headquarters to learn about current research and conservation projects. Or take a helicopter flight above Laikipia’s rolling plains, circling around Mount Kenya.
Maybe the most interesting things to do here are the activities that deviate from safari norms. Suyian used to be a ranching site and some cattle remain as part of a conservation outlook that involves local communities – you can spend a morning with the herders to learn about their lifestyle. Or head out for a walk with camels traditionally kept by Kenyan pastoralist communities – you can even have a go milking the camels for a quite literally hands-on experience.
One more thing…
There are some lovely wellness spaces at Suyian, including a shaded yoga area and a well-equipped gym with floor-to-ceiling windows and expansive views. The spa has two treatment rooms, a steam room and a cold plunge pool. If you’re travelling with little ‘uns, there are some cute treatments for them too, such as a mud facial and mini manicure.
