Snorting hippos and statue-still crocodiles, thirsty elephants and grumpy buffalos – these are just some of Laba Siwandu’s fascinating neighbours. This 13-tent camp is set by Lake Nzerakera in Nyerere National Park (formerly known as the Selous), southern Tanzania – under an hour from the capital Dar es Salaam, but still off the mass tourism map. Tents are split into two mini camps, with their own communal pool, dining deck and lounge areas. Boat safaris are a highlight of staying in Nyerere – and at Laba Siwandu, the pontoon’s just a hippo’s waddle from your doorstep.
Nesting arrangements
The 13 raised, canvas-sided, thatched-roofed tents are divided into two camps and nicely spaced along the lake shore – so you won’t hear your neighbour flushing the loo in the middle of the night.
Neutral browns, blacks and white linens are lifted with little pops of earthy greens throughout the tents – the outdoor shower, for example, has rather jazzy grass-green tiled walls and flooring.
The tent decks all face the lake, with deep copper bathtubs for a cool/warm soak, depending on the time of day, and couches that are perfectly placed for an afternoon snooze – it’s not uncommon to wake up to an elephant slurping from the lake.
Food philosophy
We defy you to skip breakfast on the camp’s pontoon – drifting on the lake as the birds get busy snapping up bugs and the hippos slowly shuffle back into the water to escape the rising sun’s rays. Not a morning person? You can do lunch instead – but either way, dining on the water is an absolute must-do while at Laba Siwandu.
Otherwise, meals (all included in the rate) are served on the main deck or around the fire pit. Think continental brekkie with cooked options if you want an egg-cellent start to the day. Dinner is typically simple and hearty, with Swahili dishes on the menu a few times a week.
Secret sauce
Siwandu’s lakeside setting is what makes this camp so magical – the views from your deck, lunch on the water or sundowners on the sand bar, the many animals – from elephants to buffalo – that come to the banks to rehydrate and cool off.
Boat safaris give you the chance to engage in staring contests with hippos eyeing you suspiciously from the water, or to test your croc-or-log skills. White egrets paddle around the shore, while herds of antelopes regularly pop by to quench their thirst. And there’s nothing better than admiring the lake while taking a dip in the pool – or, if you’re so inclined, sweating it out in the gym. Fishing’s an option, too. Cast your line for chunky catfish and then release them back from whence they came.
One more thing
A cool thing about staying at Siwandu is that you get a private game vehicle, giving you full control of the agenda – if you feel like spending hours trying to find a purple-crested turaco, you can absolutely do that. And because time is the real luxury, it’s also super handy that you don’t need to travel into the park to start your game drives (or boat safaris or bush walks) – you’re already right in the thick of it.
