Big Cats, big drama Masai Mara

The density and diversity of wildlife in the Maasai Mara can be overwhelming – in the best possible way. Just across the border from Tanzania’s vast Serengeti, the landscape is equally alluring with its patchwork of golden plains peppered with umbrella acacias, bushy thickets, rocky kopjes (hills), and of course the Mara River (the area’s lifeblood as much as a croc-related. death-trap).

Add to that an array of camps and easy access from Nairobi and Tanzania, and you’ve got a destination worthy of its reputation – and a visit, too.

Wild times

The Mara is known as one of the best places in Africa for seeing wildlife. And you better believe it. This is big cat country. Leopards – usually so elusive – are commonly spotted here (sorry). Meanwhile, cheetahs make use of the open plains for their explosive style of hunting. Scanning the bushes, you might spot the bulky backside of a black rhino disappearing into the thicket. At camp, listen for the throaty, super villain chuckle of hippos in the nearby waterhole.

Migration matters

The dry months of August to October bring the wildebeest herds from Tanzania’s Serengeti, which is contiguous with the Mara. If you thought immigration queues were tedious, you should see what these animals have to go through to cross the border.
The river crossings that take place at this time of year are the most harrowing part of the migration. Thundering herds crash across the water, dodging crocs (the reptiles, not the shoes – although, same) who patiently wait months for this feast.

You’ll face less jostling from other vehicles in the NGO-run Mara Triangle (as opposed to government-run areas of the reserve – more on that below…).

Reality bites

We love the Mara but there are parts that are best avoided – namely the areas where the largest hotels are found.
A little insider intel goes a long way here, whether it’s suggesting the best sections of the main reserve or recommending the adjacent private, community-run conservancies, which allow activities such as walking and night drives.

Lodges in Masai Mara

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