Is the notorious Captain Kidd’s loot buried beneath the sands of Ile Sainte Marie? So the legend goes. But follow the trade winds to this forgotten jewel at the edge of the map, and you’ll quickly discover—the island is the treasure.
Just a stone’s throw off the eastern coast of Madagascar, Ile Sainte Marie (or Nosy Boraha) is a long, narrow slip of Indian Ocean paradise. Measuring about 50 kilometres from top to tail and only 7km wide, you can easily roam the island on foot or by bike—arguably the best way to do anything here. And, with a population hovering around 30,000, there are probably more lemurs than locals (just as we like it). Whilst it ticks all the island paradise boxes, this is the furthest thing from your typical beach destination. Sainte Marie is a living tale of time – an island dripping in folklore and festooned with weird and wonderful creatures in and out of the water.
Where X Marks the Spot:
While the mother island of Madagascar holds its fair share of Malagasy history, legends, and lore, Ile Sainte Marie is famed for its bygone era as a pirates’ paradise. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Ile Sainte Marie was the Monte Carlo of maritime mischief (with more rum and fewer rules). Its location along key trade routes, tucked-away coves, quiet waters, and complete lack of colonial oversight made it the ultimate pirate HQ.
These weren’t your parrot-adorned, rum-soaked caricatures either—they were full-on maritime CEOs (top bananas) of the golden age, hiding plunder and dodging imperial navies like pros. Word is, Captain William Kidd himself anchored here, and whispers of hidden treasure still rustle through the coconut palms. The legend insists that Kidd scuttled his ship and stashed his loot in the heart of Ambodifotatra Bay, on Île aux Forbans (pirate island).
What remains as evidence of this golden age of piracy? Apart from the oral tales of Malagasy locals, the world’s only known pirate cemetery (cue Captain Jack Sparrow’s theme song). Resting on a slight rise south of Ambodifotatra, it’s reached via a causeway and only accessible at low tide (how else?). And yes, you’ll find real pirate graves here – weather-worn headstones scarred by time and crumbling quietly into the lore of the land!
A Naturalist’s Dream:
Ile Sainte Marie may be free of cutthroats, but it’s still flush with legends—they have striped tails and fairly large eyes. The island forms part of Madagascar’s bizarre and brilliant ecosystem – in all its eccentric, rule-breaking glory. Madagascar is a biodiversity hotspot, where over 90% of its species are endemic, meaning they exist nowhere else on Earth.
So, this isn’t Africa as you know it—there are no Big Five or epic beauties. Instead, an island of impossible things slowly reveals itself to those who explore with patience. It is a true treasure trove of oddities.
Meander the forest paths, and if you’re lucky, you will find:
- Boraha mouse lemurs and their many cousins.
- Chameleons – as big as cats or as small as a thumbnail.
- Moths with the longest tongues you’ll ever see.
- The Fossa – cat, dog or lemur? We don’t quite know.
- Tenrecs – truly adorable hedgehog-like creatures.
- The ridiculously peculiar Aye-Aye.
And, of course, more.
The Ocean – Brilliant and Breaching:
This island is not just a magnet for the marvellously weird. Believe it or not, the MAIN attraction isn’t the pirate stories or forest canopies – it’s what breaches beyond the reef! From July to September, the waters surrounding Ile Sainte Marie turn into a humpback whale highway as these gentle giants migrate from the icy Arctic to birth in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.
Below the surface, the coral gardens are equally bold. With fish in glittering tuxedos, turtles gliding by on island time, and dolphins dropping in like uninvited (but always welcome) guests, Ile Sainte Marie is a dream for snorkellers and divers alike.
A True Marvel:
There are legends in the ground, mysteries in the trees, and an ocean so alive it hums! Ile Sainte Marie holds the magic that leaves you with the undeniable feeling that there’s still something left to be found.
