At Kakuli, nature hits you right in the face, in all its solar-powered, wifi-free glory. Comfy, open-fronted chalets invite the outside in – though access is thoughtfully revoked overnight at the drop of a tent flap. (Getting lions out your room at 2am would be challenging.) Pack a good pair of walking shoes and head out into the South Luangwa on foot with your guide. It’s amazing how much more you notice without the drone of a diesel engine. And after a long day, if the water is high enough, kick back on a sunset “booze cruise” and toast yet another tough day in Africa. Then Eat. Sleep. Repeat.