Mahale is probably the best place in Africa to see chimpanzees in the wild.
Thickly forested mountains rise steeply from the sandy shores of the long, skinny Lake Tanganyika in western Tanzania. A day of chimp trekking ends with barefoot sundowners, sand between your toes, listening to the gentle lap of water. Few folks make it out here – and that sense of remoteness is a major part of Mahale’s charm.
Chimp off the old block
The park safeguards a population of around 1,000 eastern chimpanzees, including the habituated Mimikire group. Because they’ve been habituated since the 1960s, the troop is super relaxed around people, individuals having had daily visits since birth. (God, we’re an annoying species.)
The hike can be hard – sometimes taking hours on steep ground. But the effort is more than worth it to spend an hour with our closest relatives as they go about their business: grooming, foraging, swinging through the trees, perhaps the odd tussle. Much like some of the old uni parties we remember…
It’s best to visit in the driest months (August to October). This is when the trails are most intact, so you won’t be slipping and sliding on muddy paths or get a wet bum while watching the chimps. The troop also tends to be closer to the lake shore at this time of year. August is one of the busiest months in Tanzania, but Mahale isn’t affected by anything as basic as tourism crowds.
More to Mahale
Yes, you’re here for the chimps. But there are nine primate species in total, including the endangered Ugandan red colobus, yellow baboons and blue monkeys, aka the primary-coloured primates (not really).
Though it’s unlikely you’ll see them, there are also lions and elephants in the far reaches of the park.
Reward your trekking efforts by kicking back with a sundowner on the lake’s white-sand beach or out on a dhow, drifting over the clear, still water. This is a side of Tanzania very few visitors get to experience.
Getting there
Mahale is not particularly easy to access, but that’s par for the course when it comes to out-of-the-ordinary places. There are just a couple of flights a week unless you charter a plane. It’s great to combine with Ruaha, a quick two-and-a-half-hour hop, after which you’ll board a boat and fly across the water towards your destination. James Bond meets Jane Goodall?
